An nyeong ha se yo! Greetings from Korea! -1

My former colleague and Rajagiri Alumnus, and currently a Professor at TISS, Dr. Shajahan took the initiative to bring a few of us in the field of Social Work to prepare a symposium on Social Work Practice - emerging trends in India, for the global audience.  This is the biennial event jointly organised by ICSW (International Council on Social Welfare of which I am the India chapter joint secretary), IASSW (International Association of Schools of Social Work, of which I am a member) and IFSW (International Federation of Social Work). People from all over the world - academicians, practitioners, agency reps, funding agencies, publishers, welfare ministry reps etc. were the participants. . 

The normal fees is 840 USD, for members of the bodies concerned, it is reduced to 720 or so.  However, for those from developing countries it is just about half – 420 USD. And for students, still less, 200 dollars.

However, these cover only registration, kit which includes badge which also contains perfectly planned entry pass for specific lunch/dinner sessions, field trip (if already booked and paid), conference dinner (an additional 100 USD – it is kind of fund raiser) etc. I was given a part scholarship of registration waiver.

The waiver is thanks to the efforts by the local organizer who tries to generate funds for the same. It was reported that there were a good number of people, especially from India and Africa, who had enjoyed part of full waiver.

Then, as the abstract was approved, participation almost ensured, there arrived a Korean group at the college, inviting to a mega programme in Korea – World Education Leaders’ Forum - an assembly of education leaders from the world over! They would take care of the hospitality, and the programme was to be a grand one! They also requested to make a brief presentation on ‘character education’.  It appeared good, and there was only a gap of 2 days.  They promised accommodation for the days between the two as well.  Once permissions obtained from the monastery and a nod from DD, the organizers were after me to get the talk written and submitted. 

Finally, on the first night of the trip, at Chennai, sitting late into the night at 2 am, I had the draft speech ready, which had four pages!!

The Korean visa was creating much trouble – they wanted invites, then the authentication certificates of the inviting organizations – with their register numbers etc.  All these were obtained over email, and finally, just two days before the actual proposed departure, the VISA arrived, the night before that, I came to know that it was stamped.

As this was a secular function, I had to have some dress!  And after almost one and a half decades, I treated myself to some luxuries with 3 trousers stitched! In just 24 hours, the tailor had them stitched, and I found almost an hour at night to select and purchase  or obtain 3 pant-pieces.  Some good friends are there, in spite of being in very different and secluded situations – who insist on helping, and going out of the way doing that! This part of the preparation was thanks to a friend like that! Helpful to the point of being aggressive!

Two things – we all ought to remember while travelling abroad in this era – 1) an international plug which could help us connect to power our Indian devices any where. 2) a mobile charger.  I had both these – but forgot to carry them. However, thanks to my ‘protocol’ (officer) – read, volunteer, I managed to get a connector free-of-cost!  A third item, especially, while going on such missions – visiting cards.  I did get them printed in one day, thanks to the efficiency of our press (SH School of Printing).  However, didn’t carry many, they got exhausted, and I managed to get them printed on plain paper with the help of my protocol, and got them cut into card size paper slips. A fourth desirable would be some handy mementos, which would give you access to many, at least by way of presenting a memento!  I noted that basically, none of the Asians presented such things, but the Europeans and the Africans did.  A last among this wish list would be some empty space in your bag, or a bag big enough to store things you get (and for most of the people, things you purchase)!

The venue COEX  - is COnvention Centres and EXhibition Halls is a centrally located fabulous event centre in the Southern region of Seoul. It is in the heart of the (new) Seoul, the southern part of the city which is more planned.  The Northern part, beyond the Han river, is the old city with early settlements and the state institutions.

Where COEX is situated, is the Gangnam (Ghannam) area, which is famous after the song ‘Ghannam Style’!  On the East side of COEX is a very large installation of two crossed hands in golden colour, on which it is carved ‘Gangnam Style’.  The music is played there all through.

The venue appeared like a spacious mall – it has a HUGE mall in the basement (which I could never visit), but once you entered, you are struck by its vastness!  It took 4 minutes of brisk walk from some of the conference halls (usually on the 3^rd Floor) to reach the gate on the ground floor – using either escalator or elevator!! Big halls could seat 1500 people, with a huge stage.  There were at least 20 small halls, each of them which could accommodate 50 to 100 people. 

BEXCO where the second conference was held in Busan, too was really big.  We had to go across the road to reach there, and there were our protocol officers like guardian angels accompanying us gently, but firmly insisting on traffic rules.

Throughout the two big programmes that I attended there was only once, some foul sound in the entire sound management system.  Otherwise, the acoustics seemed to be in perfect order in all the halls, including those sessions and halls having translations in multiple languages like French, English and Spanish.

Food

Breakfast, normally, you are supposed to have it on your own – usually provided at the hotels. (However, staying as I was, with a young Keralite, who was not even cooking for himself, though still willing to provide me with cornflakes etc., I gladly skipped that, as that is not something I am unused to).  But you wait for the coffee break, with intelligent planning, you can very well manage, break-fast or brunch with the various juice choices, snacks etc. Coffee breaks are repeated – coffee break at 10.00; next 12.00.  Lunch usually at 1 pm. Next session 2 to 4; and 4 to 6.

A working lunch box is served during the conference days, on producing your lunch slip which comes with the registration with the specific pass and name on it. In between there is coffee (and tea, including green tea).  They tried to influence all of us the Korean way, black strong coffee with no sugar, no milk.  But due to some ‘social work intervention’, now sugar and milk have begun to be provided.  I tried to get trained the other way. Then there were the stalls by Korean government – tourism, health, welfare etc. who keep ready some coffee and snacks for any visitor. There would also be some informal sessions with publishers like SAGE or ROUTLEDGE when they have some chat regarding publications over a cup of wine/coffee and snacks. Interesting. I was thrilled to see the Routledge Book on Social Justice, with an article of mine!

Dinner is not usually part of the package – on the opening day, there is some grub offered – choice varieties – Korean and western, vegetarian and non-vegetarian.  Though not a full meal, sumptuous enough. All were waiting from noon through various formalities of registration and some sessions going side by side, ravenously hungry – it was amusing to observe the big and great delegates from all over, waiting eagerly to hear that the conference is open, and then wait for the welfare minister to say the toast.  It was declared open by three presidents – all women – of ICSW, IFSW and IASSW.

Korean Welfare.

The second day, there was a grand dinner, including a smattering of wine, hosted by the Mayor.  It was really stupendous. Wine could be further bought for $10.00 per glass.  So too beer.  I bought one glass of red wine, and shared it among the 10 of us sitting around, from all parts of the world, and they all accepted the same with grace.  There was some professional performance and ending with

The third day, there was grand dinner, which had to be paid – only a small amount of USD 100.00.  As we considered ourselves too rich to afford it, I gladly skipped it.  Not only that, this had to be done in advance.  That was the only free time, I got during the conference.  We 3 Rajagiri (old students) Malayalees stepped out; had some simple Korean food costing some 30000 Korean Won (equivalent to USD 30) in all.

But food at World Education Leaders Forum was a different scene all together.

We were picked up from a centre of Gospel Mission Church on 3^rd afternoon, by very good buses.  Were brought to the railway station and we boarded without delay. The rail travel which was supposed to have taken four hours, took almost six hours.  (A similar trip was done to Seoul on another day for a University visit.  It was said to be almost 500 kms one way.  And it took 5 and half hours in either  direction.  I thought it was fantastic even at that rate.  However, when I finally browsed the net and found out, it was just 330 kms.  So I wondered, in spite of the apparent good speed, most of the stretch with permitted speed of 100-110, why such delay?).  As soon as we entered we were given packed lunch of vegetables (fresh), salads, sandwiches etc.  Then we were served snacks and beverages, then coffee and snacks, and when we thought it was all over, there comes a typical Korean ice-cream or ice-fruit – with grated ice and a lot of ingredients in that.  Oh boy! We were full to the neck.

Then in heavy rain we arrived at Busan, we were solemnly escorted by a bunch of ‘volunteers’ with badge ‘PROTOCOL’ – boys and girls – college going or completed, all primly and smartly dressed in a uniform manner.  The escort was all through – whenever we turn around at our beck and hall, all ready to help, and also not letting us go around on our own. (Each of us was given a paper carry bag – which I opened only when I was packing for the return trip, in the last night of the stay only did I find that there was a picture of the ‘volunteer’ with some other valuable details, besides an attractive IYF T-shirt, in that!! The volunteer was pretty Zoey, with an English name Ann! - Many of the Korean youth, while introducing themselves, said that my name is A, but my American name is B).  Perhaps, Korea is highly Americanized that they think it safer to have an American name for their future benefit.

The protocol seemed quite fitting – these volunteers, very smart boys and girls, who have undergone some good training & international exposure by IYF – ensured that the participants followed the protocol of the programme to the letter!  They were very helpful, quickly and promptly responding to any of our needs, at the same time ensuring that we are kept in constant track lest we miss on any sessions, unless we called ourselves sick!

Back to food – once we arrived at the seashore hotel of Glory Conda, we were escorted to the 18^th floor for a grand dinner! There were ample choices for both vegans and others, though the former, especially some from North India, were very doubtful as to whether there was something they could ‘safely’ eat! I indulged rather merrily, to the extend my abdomen could stretch – though I have become very minimally dexterous in such matters, over these years!

The hotel where we were put up, Bexco Centum Hotel, opposite to the huge BEXCO convention centre in Busan, served excellent breakfast with all sorts of food to fill you! (But your protocol officer will not let you relish your breakfast in peace, as you always had busy schedule from 8.30 am itself!).  Usually, for every meal – lunch and dinner, we were taken out to some very special joints – to a Chinese, to a Korean, to the best buffet in Busan, to a bakery to snatch a pack of your choice 3 items for dinner, to a typical food court, where you could pick up your choice item from the 50 odd choices on the display! But, to be frank, there was hardly ever, time to relish such fabulous treats!  In two such centres, there was unlimited wine and beer also as part of the deal; but the organization appeared a strict ‘no, no’ – very unKorean like - regarding even such innocent inebriants like that of wine and beer (which were promoted by our avid UDF ‘ban’ners of alcohol!).  So I kept my rebel and explorer within me under check!

Gam sa ham nida!

Each of the participant had an IYF promoter to take care of him/her, who happens to be working in the region from where the participant comes.  They would introduce the participants to various higher ups of the organizers. The bunch of Korean Pastors from India, showed their concern by unwarranted preparation of Indian food (which they had learned to prepare while in India – rice, dal, aloo-baigan, pappad etc.) and supplied us with the same for two nights, over and above the regular food! Baba, in spite of refusing, they would not agree, finally, we had to receive that, and keep that in the refrigerator, but never getting the relief to eat that, in spite of having refused dinner one night to avoid wasting food.

At night, the last session of the day, usually starting with some felicitation by some participating state representatives (usually a minister), there would be some announcements, and a final exhortation of about 10 mts by Pastor Ok Suk Park, the founder of Gospel Mission Church (a Korean edition of Baptist church).  However, this session would have a rather grand snack, more like a mini repast, with soft drinks, cakes, fruits and cookies!! To this, I did justice without fail!

The Opening Ceremony:

The former conference had a very matter of fact kind of opening ceremony – with some Korean traditional music ready to play, but with very less of ceremoniousness. There were two comperes – English & Korean, man & woman.  They crisply introduced.  There was a speech – recorded – by Ban qi Moon, the UN Secretary General, again a recorded message by Prime Minister of Korea, an address by the welfare minister, opening addresses by the Presidents of the three organizations – viz., ICSW, IFSW and IASSW.  Then the vote of thanks.  Then we had to wait (impatiently, and eagerly and hungrily, after the looong wait from registration at 2 pm till 7 pm!) for the toast and declaring the dinner open!

Korea is a beautiful land – especially, the South where I had the opportunity to travel from North (Seoul and Paju) to the South (Busan).  It is a Peninsula, thrice as big as Kealam, and with just about 5.05 crore population. It appears very green with hills all over the country – green hills, not really big mountains. It has a rather pleasant summer – not very hot; and a rather sever winter (for Indian Standards).  During the winter it snows!

Bordering it on the North, with some area separated by two Rivers and their confluence, the North Korea – same people – now separated and almost antagonized on the basis of divergent political ideology (Capitalism and Communist Socialism – read, Communist dictatorship!).  People whom I met, didn’t seem to regret it! I was at one border point, where they have a (propaganda) centre cum observatory – from where you can have a view through fixed powerful binoculars, which are for free!  I can’t be sure as to which ideology has benefitted the people better! Externally, technologically, amenities wise, even ecologically,  the capitalist country! The socialist country seem to get deprived even of its natural resources, by mismanagement and over exploitation of their natural resources – including forests! However, no clue as to ‘happiness index’! God knows – the entire North country is behind the iron curtains, even now.

Democratic Korea appeared an amazing land with an amazing people! In just about 40 years, it had a dramatic turn around, from rural poverty, it has gone to urban affluence – definitely, with American support – but also on account of the culture of the people.

On the one hand they are very American – the dress, the discipline, the professionalism in work, the way in which their cities are built, and technology is used. On the other hand,they try to be Korean – on solemn occasions, they have token representation of their traditional attire, they still have Korean food – but almost everywhere, you get the Euro-American food! All their research and development happens in Korean! They are well trained in Korean obsequiousness! I would rather say they are Americans in Korean skin and language.

The giants like Samsung, Hyundai, LG, Daewoo etc. are all Korean.

The youth interacting with me said that in Korean culture there is much stress laid on good education, to the point of making the youngsters toil hard to get into a good college.  So from grade 1 to pre-college times, they are made to toil, finally to have a respectable grade in the college entrance test! They said that they were put to work upto 12 to 16 hours a day.   The academic stress and suicides which used to be frequent in Kerala and in some Indian cities, a decade ago, still persists on a larger scale in Korea. They also observed that as the training up to 12^th is very rigorous, once you enter the college through the tough competition, then the rest becomes easier.  So stress is more at the pre-college level.

One of the youth empowerment strategies being employed, especially by IYF is the youth internship across the world, especially in the poorer countries – for service. That is helping them to shape their character.  There is also compulsory military service – could not make sure if it was so for both men and women.  

It’s the cleanest land I have ever seen, with the least minimum of waste or litter!! I tried to have a look at the various areas the travel took me, affluent urban, poor or old urban, rural – all areas appeared rather well kept, with hardly any waste to be seen strewn anywhere.

The only exception I found to the cleanliness and discipline was in the habit of smoking in public places, and stamping the cigarette-butts by foot, and leaving it on the roads and pathways, wherever they smoked! Regarding the road discipline, both the vehicle users and the pedestrians, seemed to be one step ahead of the Americans.

SKKU – Sung Kwan Kung University – we visited in Seoul, is a 630 year old university.  Once a centre of learning under royal patronage, and the state, it was taken over by Samsung a few years ago, and since then its growth has been phenomenal.  It has over 25000 students, Around 3000 international students. A very high rate of producing patents and more than 600 plus MoUs with various institutions!!

The President of SKKU hosted a fabulous lunch for us, with wine being served! All the dignitaries (education leaders – like VCs, Presidents, Rectors) wanted to have picture with the host president, and they didn’t feel shy for doing that!  I did not venture for the same, as announcement was being made repeatedly to get seated so as to start the lunch.  It was a rather rainy day, however, as we were boarding our buses, the President was out there in the rain (of course, with his assistant holding umbrella for him) to see us off!

There was some protest by a group of people with disabilities on wheel chair, against government welfare policy for them. The first one took almost all by surprise; however, the President of IFSW, took it sportively, as should by a Social Worker, and showed solidarity with their concern.  This was to make their point utilizing the opportunity of the minister being present.  There was a second protest on the second day, when the Mayor was hosting a grand dinner for all the participants. But this was informed, and the Mayor spoke to them and gave a listening to their appeal, so that the programme went off without any fuss.

Bodies

There were three main bodies, and many sub-bodies in the operation. The world joint conference, as the name indicates, is a biennial programme, usually anchored jointly by ICSW (International Council on Social Welfare), IFSW (International Federation of Social Work) and IASSW (International Association of Schools of Social Work).  Of the former, I happen to be a National Joint Secretary. I am a member of the third one. The second one is a federation. I am a member of one of the federation members. Currently, all the three are headed by women, European! This is also a venue when some of these hold their general body, and some hold election.  To get elected, you have to follow those intricate line, and be attentive to when the announcement comes etc. Also, as is the case with any elections, pull some chain, here and there.  So hardly any of us from India, except my former teacher Dr. Vimla was in the fray.  However, she also was not elected this time.

Though the forums are global, the thinking is predominantly, European-American.  Even the methods of practice in other countries are more or less same, though they may make some adaptations according to the culture.

When we try to present altogether different perspectives, especially from the Indian context, people keenly listen to, however, due to lack of quantifiable research, and publications in those lines, they do not get carried to the mainstream thinking.

SUSTAINABILITY

In the past two conferences 2 items of global (development) agenda were discussed – poverty and worth and dignity of human beings respectively.  Though sustainability is cropping up in the discussions much more than it used to be – green, spiritual, sustainable etc being heard much often – they are yet to get mainstreamed. Next conference in Dublin, Ireland (dates are already fixed – July 4-7, 2018) is on sustainability.

I pointed out that the very organizing of such conference should be re-examined from a sustainability angle.

The organizers were presenting (what was meant to be) humorous data on the conference :

Ate up almost 6 cows (!!), Drank equivalent of what 30 elephants would drink in 6 days, used 300000 sheets of paper!!

I thought these data had to be drastically relooked at on such conferences. No mention of plastic bottle and packaging generated, and consequent waste.

From an organization point of view, both the conferences can be said to impeccable – what they did were perfect (may be, not to our satisfaction).  There was thorough planning, and meticulous execution. I believe the monetary and human resource parts had much to do with that. The former taking care of the latter as well.

We found ample young men and women, ready to guide and facilitate every session – as prescribed.  Flexibility regarding any arrangement was very minimum.  Once, fixed, then to implement it to perfection is the norm. So the ppt, if any, had to be sent in advance.  The sessions would start at 8.30 am and go on till 6 pm (in the latter conference, at 8.40 am ending in a major Mind Education Session – mostly Gospel Preaching by Pastor Park – till 9.30 pm, followed by an interaction with world education leaders and the founder over sumptuous snacks going up to 10.30 pm) – most of them as planned,  If some presenters were absent, then there would be deeper discussion, some very superficial, some really insightful.

The World Education Leaders Forum is organized parallel to World Youth Workshop, both are run by Gospel Mission Church.  This is a Korean Baptist version, founded by the Ok Sung Park, who is still going strong at 72, preaching world wide his own version of Gospel salvation, apparently very powerfully, but all in Korean.  From my explorations, it was found that there were over 300 churches/worship centres for them in Korea.  They seem to have ‘missions’ all over the world – US, Africa, Asia and so on.  In India itself, there are at least five centres – Delhi, NE, Pune, Hyderabad, Chennai.  However, if pastor Park’s claim is true, it is remarkable.  When Korean average regarding divorce is 30%, in Gospel Mission Church it is 0.5% = 5 per thousand compared to 300 per thousand.

And in spite of my getting bored and irritated, the youth, almost 3000 in number, seemed rather happy and enthusiastic.

Music is a major strength and strategy. It was my first encounter with Gracias Choir – but it was indeed a graceful one.  Except a few Europeans and one black person, all others were Koreans, most of them women, who sang and played the western music so well. The four or five white people were all lead players of violin or flute or conductors!  It was announced that they were all of world reknown. The powerful western classical music seems to have a positive and cathartic effect.  They have a music school. The performance of the school kids, nearly moved me to tears.  There were four excellent theatre shows – musicals – two of Biblical Classic – Easter Cantata and Christmas Cantata; two popular ones – Don Quixote & Gift of the Magi (adapted).  The musicians themselves are the actors and the stage setters.  The stage setting was remarkable, and there was no delay or any hitch whatsoever, in spite of the music being sung live, with phenomenal music support of the instrumentalists.

For the Social Work conference, the concurrent sessions in 8 venues begin at 8.30 am and end by 6 pm. 

Our proposal was accepted, and we were given ample time to apply for scholarships, prepare full paper etc. However, it was only last night (2 am) that I could manage my final full paper (almost 9 pages) for a presentation of 10 mts. 

For plenary sessions, with the hall of 1000 seating capacity overflowing, I find that the majority attending, unlike our conferences. 

There were choice of field trips in the afternoon, while concurrent sessions are on.  I had not registered earlier, and they would not permit.  However, with our Indian persuasiveness, I managed to get a last minute inclusion with due payment of USD 10.

We had four major meetings and one small meeting. The General Body of ICSW, of IFSW, of IASSW and COSWA (Common Wealth Social Work Association).  We had an informal meeting among the Indian group, and all seemed very enthusiastic to build up the network. I don’t know how far that will be retained. It may all fizzle out, after some years.

At the WELF, it was a stimulating experience on account of three counts: 1) It was a company of education leaders, most of them from bigger centres of learning than ours – affiliating universities or unitary campus universities.  I was sharing the room with the VC of Alagappa university.  There were VCs from J & K, Punjab and Rajasthan and a few ministers from the North East.  2) Alongside there was a forum of government representatives, most of them ministers or bureaucrats, chiefly from African, central America and Asia. They were there alongside, and we could interact with them.  The representatives from Africa seemed much more articulate and erudite than the educational leaders and administrators we come across in India. 3) I had the opportunity to make a 10 mt presentation on Character Education – Which I termed, ‘Character Education for learning to live together on the planet’.  There were quite a few of the VCs eager to get my ppt (prepared overnight) and one or two of them making reference to it in their ensuing discussions. However, I was unhappy that there was no questions raised by anyone, though two minutes were given.

MoUs – A major happening at the WELF was building up international relations.  Some had come all prepared and were signing MoUs with many other universities.  Though gone rather unprepared, we had an official MoU with IYF for youth development, and with a couple other universities.  There is job for International Office.

My return trip was to be on 8^th morning (11 am) from Seoul.  I was asking the organizers and our Protocol regarding arrangements, however, nothing was coming through.  So in the evening, I skipped the last part of talk by the Pastor and the interesting Christmas Cantata and came off. Packed the stuff.  I had gone with just one old small trolley bag – Now I had stuff – mementos, photos, brochures etc etc and could not manage with that.  The conference bag of ICSW and a small satchel I had brought in the bag came handy. 

However, as I reported that I was to leave that night, our Indian contact told not to panic and that first class ticket from Busan to Seoul (Incheon Airport) had been booked for me, and somebody would drop me at 5.10 am in the morning. That was bit scary.  We bade good bye, and somehow, I managed to wake up at 4 am, got ready by sharp 5.10 am.  There was no body there.  A taxi came and stopped asking if I wanted to go – English was of no much help.  I tried our local contact and the protocol officer – no use!! Finally, very unkorean like, a young volunteer came with a big taxi.  We move to the railway station.  Then I asked about the ticket – he was not very sure.  However, he managed to ring up my contact person, and got the message of the ticket.  However, that had to be shown in the train.  He said he would message it.  Then he asked why not take a picture of the same.  He enlarged it on his android, I took a picture, and kept it safe for examination.  The train reached the airport  just about 5 mts late – after almost 370 kms in just 3 and half hours. There was another smart protocol waiting there for me, who guided me to the right gate.  Got the immigration procedure done, and relaxed in the luxury of the business class lounge.  I had the good fortune of having got my ticket as a business class one for almost the same price as that of the economy class – an offer through the agency! That was really a luxury! Especially the lounges and the  section of the trip from Seoul to Kualalampur.   The section to India, though it was business class, definitely, the treatment was different, so too the flight comfort!! The lounge provides unlimited food and drink, facilities for relaxation, wake up call, shower, and on payment (40 to 50 USD!!) even a massage!

From luxury to subsistence – on the run!

Arrived in Chennai after mid night and the next flight – economy & domestic – was to be at 6 am! They let me in, and after check in – long wait in the chair! Gone is the business lounge and all luxuries – back in India, back to being aam aadmi! And on reaching Kochi airport, a comfortable ride back in our JNRUM bus.  College visit – hello at the various camps, then off to Kottayam by my old pal UNICORN for Social Work General Body, then to Vechoor for a visit and finally to Aluva to Rajagiri Hospital for Doctors’ Day celebration!!  That was a mad rush! But thoroughly enjoyable!

Gam sa ham nida!  Thank you!