Qatar is often only Doha - and I have heard many people comment, what is there to see in Qatar, it can be seen all around in just about 2 hours.
But as my stay in this small country, just about a quarter of the state of Keralam (3.36 times bigger than Qatar), I am finding more and more to see and enjoy.
Friday, Sep. 2, I was invited by heartian Bijoy (whose late mother was like an elder sister to me in our neighbourhood of Kochi) to join his DUNE RIDERS CLUB weekly desert ride. DRC is a voluntary group in Qatar, with desert drive as the rallying point. They have 3 levels of membership - junior (where the freshers have to undergo 6 guided rides), intermediate (where they have to go for 24 guided rides) and then senior level. The promotion to each level happens based on the commendation of 3 of the Marshalls; there are some 15 Marshalls, well experienced desert drivers, who form the core of this voluntary group. The membership is for 300 QR for a year, and along with there comes a DRC flag, a T shirt, and the support for such rides. It is a growing community, and I was happy to find 2 Malayalees at the Marshall level.
Bijoy is already at the intermediate level, and has a land-rover to serve his passion. The cars generally in use for such rides are Land Cruisers, Lexus, NISSAN Patrol Safari, Pajero etc. (from my observation of the vehicles on the ride - I hardly know anything about them). Though he is at the inter-mediate level, which demands tougher rides, for less mortals like us, Bijoy tries to stick to the junior ride, to introduce this life to the uninitiated.
We started off from Doha to sealine, from where the desert region begins. Bijoy was all set with a day long preparation for the ride - keeping the vehicle ready and tuned, water and refreshments for the way, DRC flag, radio for communication, chairs for camping... we were speeding past at 120 kms (maximum permitted in Qatar) and covering 50 plus kilometer distance in just about 40 mts. I too had Bijoy's favourite karak chay. And we gathered for our nourishment 'chilly chicken' and 'falafel' of dal (parippuvada) wrapped in Kerala Porotta. No longer a fan of porotta, I choose not to object, to see what are the standard practices.
Already, having been initiated, Bijoy got the air pressure in the tyres reduced to 15psi from the usual 36, so as to get easier movement in the loose sand. At sea-line, the riders assembled for an orientation at the starting point. The Marshalls Cabel, Khaled, Chris, Sam, Niyas, Niks, Fahad... took turns to introduce the basic principles - follow the Marshall in front, go in single file, follow the same track as the one who goes in front, second-third gear in general, keep safe distance - 2 second gap (15 mts - but using discretion, based on speed, terrain etc.), no overtaking, stop if the vehicle in front stops or gets stuck, follow the gravitation if the vehicle finds it difficult to negotiate the track, head light on, not to panic, if getting stuck there will be support/guidance to get out. Other useful accessories would be a cap and sun-glass.
We started off at 2.15 pm, almost as per the planned schedule. The desert sun didn't appear all that fierce, it is September and He seems to have mellowed; Land Rover was doing a good job. There were times when I feared that we may lose our grip, and may not successfully cover certain tracks, but Bijoy had no such difficulty. Of the 28 vehicles of the convoy, 6 were marshalls, one in front and one at the back, and each on either side to monitor, guide and support. They were all tuned to the specified frequency. Bijoy's radio was causing constant disturbance, and he borrowed one from Niks, the marshall, and our vehicle was thus constantly in the loop of communication, whereas, most of the freshers being introduced to the desert drive didn't have that facility.
Three or four times, some of the vehicles got stuck - which means almost all get stuck till they are cleared. Usually, while ascending a sand dune, with loose sand. At a point, almost mid-way, where the sand dunes had attained comparatively higher altitudes, say some 200 ft (?), the convoy was stopped for the participants to have the feel of the desert, and also for them to have the benefit of the riskier levels of desert drive, with the marshalls deftly displaying such maneuvers. Archie, the companion of Marshall Sam, with his gentlemanly training, went down the dunes to relieve himself; then climbing up was a task, after failing once, with grit and with the encouragement of the participants, he managed it all the way up. 3 young Malayalee boys who were in one of the cars, showed the spirit to go down the dunes in the loose sand, and climb all the way up. I didn't dare to have any adventure, for the fear of injuring my aging ankle!
We arrived just in time to have a face to face to meet with the sun gloriously going down. Overlooking the sand dunes, and the in-land sea (Khor-al-Udeid), across the narrow inlet, it was Saudi Arabia on the south. The forty odd km of desert ride took almost 2 hours. Marshall Caleb announced free time of 45 minutes - and indicated there were two toilets, one on the west (waters) and the other on the east (the wide and open desert)!
The inland sea (Khor or Khawr) of Udeid, was languid and warm, but cool for the summer times. The Europeans on the convoy got transformed into fish in the waters, floating, swimming - with the whole family - man, woman and kids; There were just Indian families who had brought children along the trip. They too were rather comfortable in the shallow waters. After quite some time, I too was in the sea waters, with proper gear. With my level of confidence, I stuck to the safe shallow waters, as the sun went down.
A Malayali, with his young son, entered the waters, and in close distance from the shore, he lost balance due to sudden/unexpected dip of the floor, and cried out 'help, help'... and the Italians who were close by, came and pulled him up. He seems to have gulped some sea water... but was okay. His wife was on the shore and shouted for help when he cried out. They got steady, and he came back sportively, but the young boy, who had been trained in swimming, was reluctant to enter water again.
There was a briefing on the club activities. A square was created with Marshalls' cars being parked to form a space in between them. And the basic safety, and mandatory recovery kit; and the advanced recovery kit (mandatory for those who graduate beyond junior level). A key tool is a shovel, preferably a sturdy, light-weight, aluminum one. Many were inspired to join, others would continue to test the 'waters' in the desert! They organise rides almost every week - for all the 3 levels, and sometimes, even on Saturdays, and other holidays. According to them, the ride is about meeting and merging of 3 factors - the rider, the vehicle and the sand - a trinitarian harmony!! And sand varies - from time to time, place to place, weather to weather.
The ride has four principles - safety & not to panic, recovery kit, follow the instructions and finally, protect the environment (the riders are urged to carry a waste bin, and to ensure that they don't further degrade the environment. A good thinking.
The return is marked by a SNAKE FORMATION at the start. The cars move from the starting point following the piloting marshal, taking several winding turns, resembling the movement of a snake, so that the marshals get sufficient time to ensure that all have joined the convoy. We returned on a faster and sturdier route, with very minimum of risky/soft patches, with the cars gaining speed anywhere between 50 and 80 kms, in spite of the track being not laid.
Another month, and it is said that it will be camping season, and the best of the camping spots will be booked by influential Qataris, and the area around Mesaieed, industrial town of Qatar, enroute these spots in the South will all be busy with temporary shops, food stalls for the campers etc. At the start point, there was arrangement for the tyres to be inflated again for the regular ride, without having to hunt for that service elsewhere.
It was a great company - their coming together was on the sole theme of desert drive and thrill out of that encounter. There were Egyptians, Italians, French, Americans, English, Inidans, Palestinians... perhaps, a few others...I would have loved to have some Pakistanis too in the company.
I felt fascinated, still interested in exploring the higher level rides, but not really fascinated to do the drives. Dekha jai!
Looks like you are like a daredevil :-). I tried a sample desert ride when I was in Dubai and I was screaming throughout. That too it was with a friend and we didnt do anything fancy. Cant imagine you did with expert group and with Marshals among that.
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