Friday 6 January 2023

I love SALWA - Epiphany 2023

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Jan. 6 - a meaningful feast among Christians. God manifests! I am glad for it, and look forward to the infinite and continuous manifestations of the infinte.   In this solitary state of my life, and the regular public ministry not permitted as per the work permit, the celebration was left to me. 

I had the usual provocation from my student Alan, with his Qatar Police company of Kochi al mallus.  Our plan to start off at 3.30 failed, but I managed to reach them by 4 am, it was drizzling. Our last trip and discovery of the calm blue waters of the northern tip of Qatar - Al Ruwais, had enamoured them, that they wanted to go there again, this time, with all their fishing gear. I was not averse to giving company, and, to get familiar and confident with the middle-east driving was also my agenda. 

However, in my limited knowledge of the geography of Qatar, I felt that it would be wiser to explore Abu Samra - the only border of the peninsula.    We hit the Salwa road at Jaida bridge. And as we approached the border, the drizzle gradually gathered momentum into a full-fledged rain and by the time we reached the last petrol pump and the point from where further South required special permissions or visa, it was down pour.  The distance of about 100 kms was covered in less than an hour, maintaining an average speed above 100 km per hour, in spite of the rain. Salwa was still some kilometres away, across the border, in KSA. 

We managed to find an al mallu tea shop, but struggled to get out of the car, as the rain was heavy with very fierce wind. We entered the tea shop and helped ourselves to hot  karak chai.  The glass partition and door were thoroughly shaking and when we mentioned Azar of the shop cautioned us better to sit away from that, lest it fall on us, and hurt us.  Azar and the rest of the Nadapuram guys serving the shop engaged us in interesting mallu conversations of Nadapuram-Kochi, iruttan-varattan, party politics and local problems. They also said about the possibility of crossing the border and travelling the middle-east on a multiple-entry Saudi visa.  (If days of my exile are extended, this could be a possibility to be explored). The sun was hesitant to come out, nor was his precursor.  Finally, it was about 6.40, and there was visibility.  We could sea the huge bus parking area for FIFA world cup, and the scores of buses and supply trucks lined up,  and the sealine beyond. 

The rain subsided, and we had a picture taken against the background of the restricted zone of the border.  We returned, the beautiful shore was beckoning, but was fenced to prevent free access.  The area was said to be under military control. However, 5 kilometers in Doha direction, we see the only seven star resort of Qatar, The Hilton with its ancillary a water theme park, visible from far.  We decide to explore and have a look at the place, having coming all the way.  The miles of beautiful ocean shore stretching along the western side of the land is now under the control of the hotel, and there is no access but through the hotel. We decide to explore on behalf of the school, with the director and assistants seeking information regarding the packages for children and elders. The marketing man in Alan is awakened, and then there is no stopping him.   And the staff is receptive to the idea; sales team is not around; however, we could see around, and the sales team would get back to us - we get access to the facilities of the hotel. 

The South side and North side pool areas with access to the scenic ocean shore are the unique selling point. I felt QR 150 with some meal package for a day time pass was not bad. All other attractions are for additional pay - e.g., Dolphin watch, kayaking, sunset ride, jet ski etc.  Access to the theme partk is for some QR 250 or so for a day-pass. The beach appeared quite protected and safe even for children. The other attraction is that you could see Saudi Arabia - houses and a silhoutte of hills, across the waters, not very far.

Affordability apart, that appeared to be the only place of attraction in the entire region.  No comments on the sae shore privatisation.  In this country, with every piece of land under the state, nothing much to be said about it. And, an average Qatari is more likely to be better disposed to the comforts of Hilton Resort, rather than a plain and open beach. 

As sun began to peep out, and weather becoming brighter, we looked at our options - whether to go to Dukhan and look for fishing options, or to explore the Misfir cave almost en route.  We opt for the latter.  The cave was worth our time and the little extra effort off-road.  With drizzle continuing, we feared whether the unbeaten track would give in.  But no, it was okay.  Just about 2 kilometers off-road, about 5 kilometers to the west of Salwa road,  we find this very unique cave, explained  by the probability of calcium deposits getting dissolved.  The cave appears big, as big as a hall to seat 200 plus, it has a curved ceiling, with the fissures on the rocky layers, giving the fear that the roof could cave in any moment.  The rubble piled up in the cave gives the appearance of limestone, which turns into soft desert sand after one covers almost two-third of the pile of rubble leading down to the bottom most point which is about 35 meters in depth from the surface.  It took 190 steps by me, and as per  the description a mere 65 metres.  The multiple layers of rock formation indicating varieties of sedimentation perhaps over millions of years, were very attractive. Some pigeons and bulbulls  find it a convenient shelter.  The surroundings form a farming region - with camel and sheep farms.  100 metres from the cave, there appeared a stretch of water like a small lake - it was just rain water logged into an area lying a littler lower.  The water does not get absorbed very fast year; nor does it get evaporated fast on account of the higher humidity of the region. 

We get back to Doha by 10.30 with the satisfaction of covered another end of Qatar, having enjoyed a rare rain of the desert, the fast drive, the splendid Hilton beach resort and the ocean view, and the small time adventure of Misfir cave. 

Happy for the epiphanies of the desert - the rare rain in all its fury, the beuty of the barren terrain, now all wet in the rain, that of the raised terrains, and Misfir, a most fit manifestation of the unfathomable creative power! 


 


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